5 days ago
The Last Rosés Of Summer Make For Good Wines This Fall
Having dutifully written my annual rosé wine article at the beginning of summer, it seems worthwhile to end off with a few more examples of the genre that make for wonderful drinking well into fall or winter.
Many of the American rosés, Italian and Pacific Rim I find are often too sweet and some have a strange almost fuchsia color that can be off-putting.
Of course, the rosés of France's Provence have long been a standard that others either strive to meet or go in another, bolder direction. Provence rosés do tend to be light, though their alcohol may reach 13.5% and easy to drink as an apéritif before dinner. But they are also fine accompaniments for first and main courses, too.
When I was in my salad days, the rosé of Domaine Ott was my choice for dinner with a sophisticated girl who merited a better wine than Mateus. Founded in 1896 by Alsatian engineer Marcel Ott and now owned and managed by Champagne Louis Roederer, the estate's three vineyards are quite different from one another in terms of terroir: Château Romassan are in the Bandol appellation, Clos Mireille and Château de Selle both Côtes de Provence.
Château de Selle is located inland from the Mediterranean Sea, on limestone hillsides, planted in arid limestone soil––the earth is actually mechanically tilled to crush the rocks; yields from the 345-acre organic (since 2022) estate are low. Mourvèdre is the principal grape. The estate is considered their flagship wine, with an array of soft ripe fruits on the palate and a touch of saltiness from the sea, making it a fine wine for shellfish and a good bouillabaisse. The 2024 vintage sells for $65.
Château Romassan 2024 ($69) has a bigger profile, reflecting the terroir of Bandol, a port town located just to the west of Toulon, best known for its red wines (although the majority of the grapes grown are used for rosés). It has a very pale, opalescent color and, served either more or less cold, is brisk and silky. Ott acquired the château in 1956 in the foothills of the village of Le Castellet. The soil is actually quite poor––limestone, sandstone, and marine upper cretaceous marls––and the vineyards terraced, so the grapes have to struggle a bit to prove their worth. But sea salt from the bay helps the wine's acidity and the Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache grapes are very selectively picked and sorted by hand, then fermented and aged in thermo-regulated stainless steel vats 4-6 months. It is very refreshing, terrific with mild cheeses and a fish like branzino or red mullet. Ott's website contends it will be just as good in 2029, though this is not a wine to save but to savor.
2023 Étoile Rosé 2023 ($175) is a cuvée, that is, a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre from the finest parcels from Clos Mireille and Château de Selle. It has considerable depth––it should for $175, although I've seen it on-line for less––and has more of a saline character than Ott's other rosés, owing to limestone coils of Selle and calcareous sandstone and sandy marl soils at Romassan. It is peach-colored, has a citrus tang as well as faintly sweet fruit notes. Here's a rosé to consider for bluefish and grilled chicken or seafood rosés are increasingly popular, not least Champagnes, and the Telmont Estate has put a big push into being among the most environmentally correct producers, aiming to convert 100% of its cultivated areas and its partners' to organic agriculture by 2031. In addition they are going after the small details, like using recycled glass and green bottles, not using cardboard gift boxes and shipping all wines to the U.S. aboard wind-powered Neoline ships.
Telmont's 60 acres are located in Damery, Épernay, established in 1912 and now a fourth generation estate making eight crus, since 1999 under Bertrand Lhôpital. (Actor Leo DiCaprio is an investor.) Its Reserve Rosé ($87) is a blend of grapes from four different harvest, made from 87% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier. Oddly, for a rosé there is no Pinot Noir in the blend, though Meunier is a red grape. It has a lovely rosy color, rich flavor and fruitedness but is quite dry on the palate and finish. Its finesse makes it fit for sole meunière, lobster and crab and aged cheeses.
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